Saturday, August 1, 2015

Chill Pill



Bob is catching some ZZZZZs while the crew does the tourist thing, laundry, and shopping before the trek back across the Valley starting tomorrow. The priority today is plumping Bob back up to his usual self, he is a bit dehydrated and hungry but also sleep deprived. I'm threatening to use my medical kit (above) if he doesn't comply.

Looks like Bob chose the right day to summit Whitney because today there's some nasty-looking stuff happening up there.

This morning Bob chowed down on some French toast and a special mixture of electrolyte replacement salts. Mmmm...breakfast of champions. 

Marshall and Heather were very kind to donate additional food, drinks, and leftover supplies before they left town this morning. 

Tomorrow we will take this show on the road again. Until then, we're enjoying some therapeutic air conditioning. 

Ratched RN, out.

What About Bob?


Bob is sleeping soundly after getting down from Mt. Whitney around 2 am. We will take this day to rest and let his body recover. I told Roger last night to wake me up if there are any serious problems- thinking kidneys and lungs, or any other vital thing.  Feet and brain we can deal with when he wakes up. 

No one woke me and all messages from the crew point to Bob's doing well, just needs sleep. I will leave him to sleep and we'll regroup once he wakes up and starts moving around. 

The double is hard enough on even the toughest athletes but here's where we have to take extra things into consideration: Bob is 70 years old. We all know he's nothing like a typical 70 year old but the reality of his body is this: while he's fitter than almost everyone of any age, his organs are 70 years old. And doing this sort of race taxes the body- not just the muscles, but the brain, heart, lungs, kidneys, and other parts like nothing else. So that's what we will keep in mind as we watch Bob's progress. His body needs a little longer time to recover than someone 30 years younger. 

So all is well here in Lone Pine, and I will update when we have a plan.

Ratched, out.


Friday, July 31, 2015

The Ratched Report...

Greetings friends and supporters of Bob! I apologize for the lack of posting but the desert is not full of cell phone towers and fiber optics we take for granted in the city. Just to fill you in, Bob finished the race yesterday in 41:30 which is hauling @$$...and feet looking better than ever...

After a long drawn out post race party last night, Bob finally got some sleep and woke up to start his trek up Mt. Whitney at 4 am with Marshall Ulrich and his crew members. The sky is cloudy today, but that cools things off, and we can see the summit from town, a few blue holes in the sky are encouraging. I feel confident that Bob is in the best of company in the world on this portion of the trip.

The crew did a fantastic job, over the top, of caring for Bob on the way here. Even though Kevin Grabowski, crew chief, begged and pleaded with me not to look at the van when I first arrived, by the time he allowed me to peek at it, there was no evidence of whatever he was hiding earlier. 

Marc Drautz, Beth Stone, and Roger Burruss made up the rest of the crew and Bob couldn't have been in better hands. 

Today we are talk a day of active rest and preparing for tomorrow's jaunt, beginning our return to Badwater. The biggest challenge for Bob, I think, will be distracting him from the constants - pain in his feet. As I told him, that's a given and the key is to focus on everything else around you. Without the rush, pressure, and fanfare of the race, we should have a fun and relaxing time on the way back. 

I will most likely be posting on Facebook from here on unless we have a stretch of solid wifi access, doubtful... So please feel free to check (Alene Nitzky on Facebook) and hopefully Suzanne will share to Bob's followers. 

Thanks for being Bob's supporters and fans. He is such a wonderful human being, it's an honor to be on his crew. From here it will be Ashley Heclo, Roger, Don Nelson, and me...with the shared goal of getting Bob to Badwater to celebrate this already amazing accomplishment! 

Ratched aka Alene Gone Bad, out.


Friday, July 17, 2015

Pursuing the “Badwater Ultra Cup”--2015

I admit it; I’m a “Badwater” junkie.  Don’t know how it happened, but it did!  I’ve been showing-up in Death Valley every July since 2007, and have either crewed for another runner or raced Badwater 135 myself.  Maybe it’s that special camaraderie and race culture; maybe it’s the allure of the desert and the mountains.  Whatever that magic is, I’ve been sufficiently hooked to be competing again in 2015, hoping to earn the “Badwater Ultra Cup” distinction, and attempting the “Badwater Double” at race’s end--as a bonus!  At 70, I expect to “up” the oldest-finisher “Double” record by a dozen years.

As a  Race Director myself, I know a “pro” when I see one, and no one does a better job than Chris Kostman in directing and designing extreme events.  Three years ago, when Chris announced Badwater Salton Sea, there was no way I’d miss being at that crazy, exotic starting line on the crunchy shore of Salton Sea.  A two or three-person team race that was NOT a relay, where mates had to run together for the entire 81 miles to the top of Palomar Mountain?  73 miles on road, 8 miles on rocky trails (mostly climbing), and a course that mimics the Badwater 135 route, just shorter?  I could totally buy into that; Sergio Radovcic, Matt Nelson and I were there and had a terrific experience.




When Badwater Cape Fear was announced for March 2014, my reaction was the same—another Kostman original! Racing a little over 50 miles on a pristine North Carolina coastal island that doesn’t allow motorized vehicles—10 miles on pavement through a beautifully developed second home community and 40 more on the Atlantic Ocean sand beach?  Spectacular idea!  And this not-to-be-missed ultra on Bald Head Island met every expectation. 

Now there were three: Badwater 135, Badwater Salton Sea and Badwater Cape Fear, and a new designation for completing all of them in the same year: the “Badwater Ultra Cup”.  So I threw my hat into the ring for that inaugural chase in 2014.  I had a fine race in the desert in July, finishing 50th in 39:45 at Badwater 135.  The first of the three events, Badwater Cape Fear, was a keeper, too—and, BTW, I couldn’t recommend that event more highly.  But the result for this returning veteran at the second installment of Badwater Salton Sea was not so pretty.  Illness before the race and charley-horsing calf muscles during it knocked me out of the race at the halfway point.  There would be no “Badwater Ultra Cup” in 2014.

So, “Salton Sea” for me in 2014 was quite the bummer, but being part of these races was so enjoyable that I set my sights on giving it a go one more time in 2015.  Besides, I figured that earning the “Cup”--as well as completing the 292-mile “Double”--would be fitting personal birthday gifts in the year when I could no longer deny my entry into Senior Citizenship!!  So, I returned to Bald Head Island in March and actually set a PR for the 50 mile distance.  I had the distinct pleasure of running as the teammate of Keith Straw at “Salton Sea”, and we nailed it!  And now, with just days remaining, Badwater 135 lies ahead, with that proverbial Holy Grail known as the “Badwater Ultra Cup”, just sitting there at Whitney Portal waiting for me to snatch it up!



Thanks, Chris, for all the fun—and all the material for “What I did on summer vacation”.


Bob Becker

2015 KEYS100 Ultramarathon Race Report
RD Bob Becker

The competition was excellent and the views spectacular--as always!  The 8th Annual KEYS100 race across the islands of the Florida Keys was held on May 16-17.  For the first time, a 50 kilometer competition from Big Pine Key to Key West was added to the event menu: 100 miles from Key Largo to Key West, 50 miles from Marathon to Key West and our unique six runner 100 mile team relay from Key Largo to Key West.  Nearly 1,200 competitors insured that the post-race action at the finish line on Higgs Beach kept rockin’!  From 3:00pm on Saturday until 3:00pm Sunday, runners crossed the finish line as 2,000 burgers, 7 kegs of beer, countless pizzas and more began to disappear!  And, a race tradition continued as 700 pieces of Dion’s fried chicken were enjoyed, too.  At the awards program under the huge tent on the beach at noon on Sunday, over 200 awards were presented, each hand-made in the Keys.  Picture the awards presentation stopping each time someone yelled, “Runner coming”, and hundreds of people stood and turned to cheer-in the last few of the 100-milers.  With Gary Hempsey’s band playing “Buffett” on the beach, or the post-race party at “Smokin’ Tuna” or sunset at Mallory Square, the celebration was vintage Key West, and a great complement to the stellar athletic performances along the point-to-point Overseas Highway course.  More than 75% of the race is run on the bike paths, pedestrian bridges and service roads that make-up the “Florida Overseas Heritage Trail” which parallels the roadway for most of that 100 miles.  The balance is run on the road shoulder, including historic Seven Mile Bridge.

Awards time!

Christy Johnson in the Lower Keys

170 people were registered for the 100 miler. 144 actually toed the starting line and 97 finished—a better than expected 67% finishing rate in the sub-tropical heat of the islands in mid-May.  Vanderley Pereira of Brazil beat last year’s men’s champion, Grant Maughan of Australia, for the overall win in 16:17 flat.  Women’s winner, Tammy Walther, of Little Rock, Arkansas, returning to KEYS100 for the 6th time, finished 7th overall with a time of 20:16:18.  There were exciting competitions throughout, including 5th place Zandy Mangold beating 6th place Will Glover by 17.8 seconds to take the Male Masters win.  And Jason Romero, who won the 45-49 male age range award and finished in 9th place overall.  Jason’s time was 20:31:18; he is legally blind.

The 50 mile race saw Chris Van Smith of Weston FL cross the finish line in 7:51:45 for 1st place.  Top spot among the women was Caryn Lubetsky, last year’s 2nd place finisher.  Caryn was 4th overall in 8:19:41.  Tom Drummond of Chalfont PA, Male Masters winner in 8:52:44, was crewed by last year’s 100 mile overall winner, Alyson Venti, who reciprocated for Tom’s crew support of her 2014 record-smashing win at KEYS100, and then again in July 2014 at Badwater 135..

The inaugural 50 kilometer race was added after a chorus of requests to do so, and a consensus to make the heat a factor at that distance, too.  (No “easy” ultramarathon “introductory-distance” race, this one!)  The first 50 kilometer competition began at 1:00 PM on Saturday.  David Kilgore of Palm Bay, FL, a KEYS100 rookie at age 23 and winner of this year’s 50 mile EVERGLADES ULTRAS trail race, broke the tape in 4:19:17 for the win.  Women’s winner and 2nd overall was Fabiola Morales of Miami, FL.  Fabiola’s time of 5:39:55 was only 17.4 seconds ahead of 2nd place female Caitlin Lopez of West Palm Beach.

The 100 mile team relay race produced a spectacular example of athleticism with the record-breaking performance of Space Coast Runners.   The team of Shane Streufert, John Davis, Steve Chin, William Vanos, Dan Burnett and Chris Cacciapaglia completed 100 miles in 9:07:27, beating the old record by 9 minutes in significantly hotter conditions.  This was one of those records that most thought would never be broken.  But, Team BT’s Road Warriors “unbreakable” record stood for just one year.  This was an exciting race as Space Coast Runners and BT’s Road Warriors competed head-to-head; “Road Warriors” finished 2nd.  Overall, 136 teams, including 30 military teams, raced simultaneously with the individual ultramarathoners.  Many teams offered individual runners their support, encouragement and camaraderie along the way while being inspired by the individual effort they witnessed under a cloudless, hot and humid South Florida sky.  Our unique 100-mile relay race remains an important tradition and integral part of the KEYS100 race experience.


More than 30 states and 7 countries other than the U.S. were represented this year.  The 9th Annual KEYS100 returns to the islands on May 21, 2016.  Visit www.keys100.com for all the details, and check out the official race video from 2014 (http://youtu.be/einciyU4Ric) for an excellent overview of the KEYS100 race experience.

Thursday, March 5, 2015

EVERGLADES ULTRAS, 2/21/2015, RD Race Report

EVERGLADES ULTRAS Race Report for 2015

Record-Setting Race Day in the Everglades on February 21st: 4 of 6 Race Records Broken!

It was one of those near-perfect February Florida days: cool at the start, reaching the 70’s in the afternoon.  The course through the heart of the Everglades was mostly dry, with bridges and work-arounds built over sections that still had flowing or standing water.  And did runners ever respond to this opportunity!  235 people registered for this 4th annual EVERGLADES ULTRAS, competing in 50 mile, 50 kilometer and 25 kilometer races.  (The first two of these were also the USATF-Florida Association trail championships at those distances.)  First time 50-miler David Kilgore, 22, of Palm Bay, FL, made it look easy as he blew away the course record by an astonishing 1 hour and 10 minutes with a time of 6:02:43.  (That time is even more impressive considering the old mark was held by elite ultra-runner Katalyn Nagy, who is a member of this year’s U.S. 24 Hour Team, competing next month in Europe in the world championships.)  In addition, both 50 kilometer records were broken as was the men’s 25 kilometer mark.

50 kilometer winner Cuche Alarcon, from Veracruz, Mexico, was in South Florida for business and decided to compete in a race while here.  Compete he did, beating the field in a time of 3:49:47—and breaking the old mark by a full three minutes!  Not to be out-done, 50 kilometer female winner Natalie McLeod, Vero Beach, FL, finished in 4:53:44, beating the old record by eight minutes!  Tim Lyster’s 25 kilometer record was set in the race’s inaugural year, but Jason Clark, of Chittenango, NY, decided it was time to lower that standard, finishing in 1:42:16.  That effort took 8 ½ minutes off the old mark.  While she didn’t break the course record, 50-mile female winner, Michelle Matys, Boca Raton, FL, set a big PR as she reached the finish line in 8:30:59.  1st place 25 kilometer female victor, Natasha Yaremczuk, was thawing-out in South Florida before returning home to Ontario, Canada.  Natasha beat the second place female finisher by more than two minutes as she crossed the line in 2:00:14.  It was truly a day of amazing performances and personal bests.

Our host and partner, the Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park, is the largest state park in Florida.  At over 80,000 acres, “The Fak” easily contains these race routes, including the single loop 50 mile course, with much of the park still to explore.  Competitors race along raised trails called “trams” above the swamp strand, then through spectacular grassland prairies and wooded “upland” areas.  The park boasts the largest variety of orchids and bromeliads on the continent and a wide array of animal life: Florida panther, black bear, bobcat, deer and Florida mink, to name a few.  There are alligators and other reptiles, to be sure, and an astounding array of bird life.  On race day in this nature preserve, you never know what you will see.  Most animals are not used to seeing or hearing runners or any other humans--and the park rangers supporting them on all-terrain vehicles--so tend to keep their distance.  Still, there are always stories of wild-turkey and deer and bear and Bard Owl sightings, and lots more.  What an exotic and unique location this is for a trail race.  Eoin Craigie, who was racing from Montreal, said: “The race and the day were both incredible and I couldn't have asked for a better event to attend.  I came down from cold Montreal to run the 50M and didn't expect such great scenery…  I'll be back to race the Everglades and let everyone know this is a great event.”  Or, in the words of 25 kilometer runner Rebecca Kinzel: “It was a thrill to run in such a remote, absolutely pristine place.”

EVERGLADES ULTRAS is particularly mindful of providing extraordinary runner support.  10 fully stocked aid stations and three un-staffed water and ice stops are scattered throughout the venue, many in very isolated locations that can only be accessed by ATVs and UTVs.  Tents and tables and chairs, coolers with ice and water, sports and soft drinks, a wide assortment of food and more are driven out and set-up by park rangers and volunteers in this exciting environment.  Much of this is jungle, folks!!  All 70 plus miles of race trails are opened or re-opened by hand, trimmed, mowed by tractor and flagged before race day.  It is this Herculean effort that affords us all the privilege of experiencing this amazing place.  On race day, all active trails are patrolled by a large staff of park rangers whose job it is to fully support runners and focus on their safety.

Fifty mile age group winner Ashley Heclo commented that, “The aid stations were amazing, the trails perfect, the rangers gracious and helpful, timing on point.” She praised the ”…fantastically helpful and cheerful volunteers”, and added: “Park rangers were active all day checking on runners on desolate parts of the course and topping off water bottles… I've drank the koolaide man, in large part because of meeting people who inspire me to reach beyond.”

Race veteran Stephen Roos, commenting on the course’s technical areas, said:  “Once you get past the first three or four miles, which are easy and cute, you are lured into thinking this race is gonna be a breeze.  The next 10 miles are due north, filled with Florida beauty you will probably not see anywhere else on foot.  Wild orange groves, wild grapefruit trees, ferns and orchids, with swamp on either side.  The next three miles are due west and are very technical.  Pay attention to where you are stepping or go splat.  During pre-race orientation race director Becker explains there are "cypress knees".  These are the root systems of cypress trees that grow horizontal just underneath the surface growing nodules above the ground that look like knees.  …These things are the devil's imps!   Imagine the arcade game "whack a mole" in reverse.  Instead of having a mallet and whacking the head of the mole when it pops its head up, cypress knees will pop up when you are not looking, grab you, and trip you. 
“After leaving the technical northbound and westbound trails, the southbound route opens up to tall grasslands and trees as far as you can see in all directions.  Eventually there will be fewer trees and the trail will open up to prairies that go on...FOREVER!
“Then there is the beauty that is found all through this event.  Whether it was my good looks or scintillating smell, butterflies flew within inches of my nose many, many times throughout the day.”


Then there are comments like these from first-timer John Flynn.  These alone are enough to make old RD’s like me come back year after year:  “I ran my first 1/2 marathon on October 26th, my first marathon on 12/7 and my first 50K ultra yesterday.  That was one of the great experiences in my life. To be doing these things at 59 is just amazing to me.  I even get a medal and a beautiful picture on top of all of that! I am walking on a cloud (softly, my feet still hurt).”

EVERGLADES ULTRAS is held each year in the Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park near Everglades City, FL.  2015 was a most memorable event.  See you again next February.

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

2014 Badwater 135 Ultramarathon, Race Report

BADWATER 135 RACE REPORT
July 21-22, 2014
Bob Becker

Last Monday night, July 21, the big dipper above Cerro Gordo Road, about 15 miles outside Lone Pine, CA, was so clear and big and close that I could nearly grab it with both hands and take a drink.  And so it was with my Badwater race: all the elements needed to complete 135 miles were right there for the grabbing, and I went for it.  Truly this experience could not have been any better.

I have been part of this event for each of the past 8 years, racing it in 2008 and crewing for other runners each of the other six years.  There is a special culture here, a vibe that is hard to explain but that draws most people back year after year.  The “Badwater 135” Ultramarathon is as iconic as a race can be, and known as the “world’s toughest footrace”.  With a limit each year of 100 runners able to compete, 26 countries and about as many states were represented at the starting line.   It was such a privilege to be part of this select group.

6:00am wave awaiting the start



Ready: Let's go! 


When my application was accepted as the oldest runner this year, race planning began and progressed with modest but realistic expectations.  This is not a race where I would land on the winners’ platform!  The goal was to finish, and maybe to pick-off a few runners along the way so as not to be dead last.  Next on my wish list was to finish in under 42 hours, and finally to beat my time of 40:48 from 2008—admittedly a bit of a stretch.  My first call was to friend and ultramarathon trainer, Lisa Smith-Batchen, who had gotten me ready for my very first 100 mile race and again for Badwater in 2008.  We discussed those goals in the context of my age and condition and time remaining before the race; I had total confidence that Lisa would have me ready on race day.  (For those who don’t know her, Lisa Smith-Batchen is a 53 year old elite ultrarunner who has won Badwater twice.  And this month, beginning on July 1st and ending on July 15th, Lisa ran a most extraordinary route for an important charitable cause.  Lisa ran the traditional Badwater route to raise money to drill potable wells in Africa and India.  But, after completing those 135 miles, she then summitted Mt. Whitney—the highest peak in the contiguous 48 states—and then ran back to the Badwater basin where she began, the lowest point in the Western Hemisphere at 282 feet below sea level.  That “double” was not enough, so Lisa repeated the entire route, completing the 135 mile course again, summitting Whitney a second time and then returning to Badwater.  She traversed 584 miles, completing the “Quad” crossing in 15 days, only the second person, and first woman, to ever do so.)  Yes, I was in pretty competent hands.   

Coach Lisa Smith-Batchen and 2nd place Badwater finisher Grant Maughan


 With training spot-on, it was vital that many other elements of this effort be in balance, too, as I would be on the road without sleep for a long time.  My nutrition and hydration plan required 200-250 calories  and 20-30 ounces of fluid per hour, adjusted for time of day, and 2 electrolyte capsules every half hour or so.  I can find it difficult to swallow solid food during long, hot races, so caloric intake was primarily from Ensure, Hammer gels, Gatorade and Coke, with odds and ends of fruit, cookies, soup and chips on occasion.  It worked.  There was never any stomach distress and the balance of fluids and salt/mineral replenishment held steady. 

Throughout the race, except at the beginning and first night, I wore an ice bandana around my neck and a buff containing ice, tied at one end, under my hat to help control body temperature.  These were replaced with fresh ice every couple of miles.  During the second day when the heat became a much greater factor, I was sprayed with water from a hand-held sprayer almost constantly while moving down the course.  After the first 45 miles, we were allowed a “pacer” to run with (actually behind) us.  Each member of my 4-person support crew took turns as the pacer, keeping me focused and alert and in good humor.  Badwater is a race that would be impossible to complete without a crew of people meeting you every couple of miles to replenish fluids, offer food and ice and massage and encouragement, a change of socks and whatever else might possibly be needed.  As with other factors in my race, my crew of Bill Wenner, Kevin Grabowski, Bonnie Busch and Beth Stone was beyond fantastic.  I couldn’t be more grateful for their outstanding care and concern and excellent execution.  If there were any issues in that van, I never knew about them.  Their job was to keep me focused and moving forward according to plan, to provide whatever help might be necessary along the way and to cross the finish line with me at the Mt. Whitney Portal.  And they got it done beautifully.

The crew



As is traditional, there were three “waves” of runners beginning this race--at 6:00am, 7:00am and 8:00am.  We were allowed 48 hours to complete the course.  Badwater Basin, where the race traditionally begins, is located within Death Valley National Park.  A new park superintendent upon arriving in the desert last year, decided not to approve any event applications in 2014 until after a safety study had been completed.  In spite of 25 uneventful years for this race, not to exempt Badwater from this action was ludicrous, but her decision stood.  As a result, the course this year had to be modified.  “Death Valley” is part of the greater Mojave Desert, so the revised route incorporated the 30 miles of desert road from Darwin to Lone Pine NOT located within the national park—out and back, actually, for a total of 60 paved desert road miles—plus the traditional climb to the finish up Mt. Whitney to 8,500 feet and the road’s end at “Whitney Portal”.  Instead of starting at the Badwater basin, the route began in Lone Pine with a climb of 22.5 miles to Horseshoe Meadows at 9,900 feet, followed by an equally long descent.  For a Florida flatlander, it was a most interesting start! 

The long and winding road down Horseshoe Meadow Road. Lone Pine in the background.


Running it! 


Passing back through Lone Pine at 45 miles, a 15-mile stretch of desert road took us via a detour on Dolomite Loop Road to Keeler, the small settlement at what once had been thriving Owens Lake.  There, we made a left-hand turn onto a rocky dirt road, leading up 7 ½ miles to the ghost town of Cerro Gordo at 8,152 feet.  This off-road stretch was by far the most difficult part of the race, with the grade reaching at least 18 degrees in some sections, and seeming to continue forever!  When my pacer, Kevin, and I finally arrived at the bright lights of what had been the “American Hotel” many years before, we were too tired to check out the bullet holes in the old saloon walls inside.  I sat for a couple of minutes on the porch, then began the equally steep 7 ½ mile descent.  Had we been among the fastest elite runners who climbed Cerro Gordo Road during daylight, we wondered if the experience would have seemed so daunting.  On the other hand, they missed that crazy big Big Dipper, so there is that consolation. 

Just off steep and rocky Cerro Gordo Rd.


At the bottom of the mountain, I took a left at Keeler on Route 136 and ran for 17 miles, reaching the turn-around point at the Darwin turn-off.  What a welcome sight, knowing that we had completed 92 miles, and that the finish was just 43 miles down the road—including that climb to 8,371 feet—all straight ahead.

Between Keeler and Lone Pine


 It is hard, grinding work out there.  Yet it has its special moments that are exciting and fun and motivating.  Catching-up with my crew every couple of miles was one of them.  As trite as it sounds, hearing people yell out their windows, “Go, Bobby, go!”, or “You’re looking strong”, and similar cheers, were somehow very meaningful and became my unspoken mantras for awhile.  And crossing the finish line at Whitney Portal? As rewarding and exhilarating as any experience could ever be.  Beating my goal by a lot.  Finishing in under 40 hours.  Just perfect.

View across Owens Valley from Cerro Gordo Rd. to switchbacks on Horseshoe Meadow Rd.


I ran Badwater this year as something of a test.  I have been thinking about celebrating my 70th birthday in 2015 by running the “Badwater Double”, and wanted to see how I’d do racing “only” 135.  Yes, I got it done, but it does hurt—a lot!  So, it will be awhile before I’ll think about that decision, and lots can happen anyhow in a year.  Come to think of it, sitting in a rocking chair at the old age home with a slice of birthday cake in my lap doesn’t sound so bad right now…

Cooling spray from Bill Wenner heading up Mt. Whitney Portal Road